PDF Copy for Printing

Planting

Dig a hole at least twice as wide as the root ball or container. 

For Ball & Burlap plants: Carefully place the root ball in the prepared hole. Remove all roping and cut and remove at least the upper 1/3 of the burlap and wire basket (if present).

For plants in containers: Carefully remove the plant from its container. It is often easier to lay the container on its side, grip the plant’s trunk, and gently pull the plant while holding onto the container until it releases. Check the plant’s roots to see if they’re circling and wrapped around themselves excessively. If they appear to be, gently loosen them without busting up the root ball. Place the plant in the prepared hole.

Check the root flare (where the topmost root emerges from the trunk) and make sure it is at or slightly above the soil level. Mix any soil amendments with the soil from the hole and use it to backfill. Tamp the soil around the root ball, and water thoroughly.

Watering

Proper watering is the key to a successful planting. Too much or too little can result in the plant’s death. Newly planted trees and shrubs may need to be on a watering schedule for the first 2-3 years until they become established. The root ball of a tree may dry out even if the surrounding soil remains moist.

Water by letting a hose drip slowly at the base of the tree, but not against the trunk. It is not practical to give a formula on how often to water because of varying site and weather conditions. Keep in mind that the upper 8-12 inches of soil should be kept moderately moist. Do not wait until your plants show signs of stress to water them. Probe your soil around the drip line and check moisture levels every 3-4 days.

Mulching

Mulching your plants is both decorative and beneficial. Not only does mulch keep weeds down and make your landscape look complete, but it also protects your new plants. Mulch helps keep your plants’ root zone moist and cool during the hot and dry months of summer, as well as providing providing insulation in the cold of winter. Mulch also provides a favorable environment for earthworms and micro organisms to improve soil structure.

Remember when applying the mulch to keep it 4-6 inches away from the trunks of trees and the base of shrubs. Mulch built up against the bark of woody plants can cause moisture build-up and result in rot, insect, or disease infestations. The newly applied mulch should extend about 4-5 feet around the plant.

Fertilizing

First season: When planting a new tree or shrub, do not add any fertilizer. The tender root system of your new specimen will need to re-establish itself first. However, compost, or another soil amendment may be added during planting.

Second season: Due to unpredictable late winter/early spring weather, we strongly recommend to wait until the 3rd week in May to apply fertilizer. Organic fertilizers, which break down more slowly, can be applied in early April.

PDF Copy for Printing

Container gardening, while rewarding, can be challenging. Most plants require extra TLC when growing in containers, and still tend to be short lived. You have to consider the possibility that trees and shrubs kept in containers may need to be replaced as often as every 1-5 years. The four primary issues that you face are: 

• Constrained Roots: Limited container size means less room for root development, and a greater chance that plants will become root bound.
• Temperature Swings: The limited soil mass and greater exposure of being in containers can cause drastic changes in soil temperature throughout the season, stressing your plants.
• Moisture Loss: Excessive heat, high wind, and limited soil mass will result in faster moisture loss for your container plants. You must water them regularly. Rainfall alone is not sufficient.
• Poor Drainage: Despite the need for supplemental watering, your container plants cannot be sitting in water. Make sure your containers have adequate drainage.

Selecting Plants

When preparing to purchase plants for a container garden, check the exposure of the area where you want to put your containers. How much sun does it get? What direction does it face? It is also helpful to take pictures and measurements of the space and/or draw a diagram. Having this information will make it easier to determine which plants will work best for you, and their care requirements.

Container Options

Gethsemane’s Statuary Department carries many different kinds of containers in a variety of sizes, shapes, and materials. Resin containers are very popular because they are light weight and hold up well to weather conditions. Heavier containers can be a good choice for high rise buildings where intense winds can be problematic. When planting trees and shrubs, bigger containers are always better. The larger size allows for greater root growth, moisture retention, and insulation. Remember, plants may eventually outgrow the container. Also, make sure the containers you purchase have drainage holes. If there are no drainage holes in the container, ask if they can be drilled for you.

Planting

When planting trees and shrubs, the root flare (the area where the roots first start to emerge from the base of the plant) should be at or slightly above the soil line. The soil line should be 2-4” below the rim of the container. Some people like to   add a 1-3” layer of rock/gravel to the bottom of the container to help with drainage.

Fill about ¾ of the container with a high grade potting soil. Make a funnel in the center by pushing some of the soil up against the sides of the container. Remove the plant from the grower’s pot. If the plant’s roots are densely compacted, loosen up the root ball a bit. Settle the plant in the center of the container, add enough soil to cover the exposed roots, and push down firmly to secure the plant in place. Water the plant immediately after you finish planting it. While you water for the first time, watch the bottom of the container and make sure the water is draining properly.

Watering

There is no “formula” to determine how often you need to water your container plants. Every location and container is different. Check the soil moisture every 24-48 hours by pressing your finger into the soil 2-3”. If it is dry, water the plant until the soil is fully saturated. Following this schedule for the first 4-6 weeks after planting should give you a better understanding of how often the plant needs water. Please remember that varying weather conditions will affect how often you need to water your container plants.

Winter Maintenance

Plants are much less cold hardy when over-wintering them above ground, but there are steps you can take to protect your container plants in the cold weather. Layering insulation (such as burlap or bubble wrap) around the container can help protect the plant’s root system from extreme cold. Grouping your container plants together (with the hardiest plants on the perimeter) or up against building walls can also help protect them. Repeated temperature swings, such as freeze and thaw cycles during early spring, can “trick” your plant into budding/leafing out early. Buds and leaves are not as cold hardy as the woody parts of the plant and may be damaged by spring freezes. Most plants need very little moisture during the winter since they are dormant. Evergreens – plants that retain their leaves/needles during the winter – do need some water, since they will continue to lose moisture through their foilage. The best solution is to put ice cubes on top of the soil in the container. The ice will slowly melt during warmer daytime temperatures, providing adequate moisture. Add more ice throughout the winter as it melts.

No Warranty

Due to the harsh growing conditions experienced by plants in above-ground planting situations, Gethsemane Garden Center does not offer any kind of warranty on trees and shrubs that are planted in containers or raised beds. 

PDF Copy for Printing

• Balled and Burlapped – “B & B” plants are grown in the ground. Once they are dug from the ground, their root ball is wrapped in burlap (and, often, a wire cage) then prepared for sale. Larger, more mature plant specimens can be available in this manner.
• Container stock – Plants grown and sold in containers. Container-grown plants are in soil mixes that are lighter than native soils: this makes them easier to ship and handle. The lighter soil mix also means that they will require more regular watering to get established.
• Bare root – Plants have been uprooted and soil removed from the roots while dormant. Not all
  plants are available in this form. It is commonly used for roses, fruit trees, some
  shrubs and perennials. Bare root material has a very limited availability and planting time. Bare root plants are a perishable commodity – get them in the ground as soon as possible.
• Dormancy – Dormancy is the period in a plant’s life cycle when it enters a period of rest. Most plants enter dormancy during the cold winter months..
• Caliper – A nursery measure of trunk diameter, usually at twelve inches above the ground.
• Deciduous – Plants that shed their leaves at the end of the growing season. Most of our woody
  trees and shrubs are deciduous.
• Variegated – Plants that have more than one color in the leaf, and sometimes the stem.
  Variegated plants can help break up large blocks of solid green foliage.
• Broadleaf evergreen – Plants with leaves, which retain them year-round. Common examples are
  rhododendrons, boxwoods, many hollies.
• Conifers – Cone-bearing plants. Not all conifers are evergreen, but most are. A large group of
  plants that includes pines, spruces, firs, junipers, Arborvitae, yews, and many others.
• Root flare – The root flare is the place where the topmost root emerges from the trunk. It should
  always be at or above soil level. Plants with the root flare buried too deep can have multiple health problems.
• Mycorrhiza – Fungi that grow on or around the root system of a plant. The fungi absorb nutrients such as phosphorus and magnesium and bring it directly to the plant roots. Mycorrhizae can help protect their plants against diseases and toxins. They can also serve as a sugar delivery service for different plants connected to the same common mycorrhizal network. Mycorrhizae naturally occur in healthy soil, but
  can also be found packaged or in a quality fertilizer.

It depends on the plant: some can be pruned in early spring while others may benefit from fall pruning. If you need help determining what your plant needs, please come to the Tree & Shrub department and we can assist you. Make sure you know the variety of plant you are pruning, or bring pictures or samples (in sealed plastic bags) so we can identify it.

Plants should be pruned to maintain health, size and shape, along with improving flowering and fruiting. Dead or diseased branches should be removed first, then you can proceed to prune for shaping, rejuvenation, or promoting fruit.

Plants that have buds set on old growth like forsythia or lilacs should be pruned after flowering. Plants that bloom on the new growth can be pruned early before the season starts and any sign of new life is visible. All evergreens other than pine should be pruned before the new growth starts in spring or during mid-summer when the growth stage is not active.

Many plants can survive transplanting any time during the year when the ground is not frozen, but woody plants are best moved in the spring after the ground thaws and before the buds on the tree or shrub begin to swell. They may also be moved in the fall after leaf drop but before the ground freezes. Fall planting should take place soon after leaf drop, providing time for new water absorbing roots to develop before the soil freezes. Evergreens are especially prone to winter browning if planting is delayed until shortly before the ground freezes in the late fall, they should be moved in the late summer to early fall. Fall transplant success may be increased by transplanting hardy plants into sites with good soil moisture and wind protection.

First season: When planting a new tree or shrub, do not add any fertilizer. The tender root system of your new specimen will need to re-establish itself first. However, compost, or another soil amendment may be added during planting.

Second season: Due to unpredictable late winter/early spring weather, we strongly recommend to wait until the 3rd week in May to apply fertilizer. Organic fertilizers, which break down more slowly, can be applied in early April.

It is sometimes difficult to determine just why a particular plant will fail to set flower buds, or will set them and not develop flowers. There may be several reasons: too much fertilizer (high nitrogen); not enough sun; pruning at the wrong time; cold or drought stress; or the plant is not sufficiently established. The above mentioned conditions will account for the majority of reasons why a woody plant may not produce flowers during a particular season. It is important to keep in mind that plants are complex organisms and that flowering is controlled by many factors in the environment. Good plant selection, proper planting and care, site selection (and sometimes, patience) are elements to successful flowering. Sometimes, in spite or all you do, some plants just refuse to flower for a season.

Gethsemane Garden Center offers a one (1) year warranty on newly purchased trees and shrubs.

Plants purchased at the full retail price that fail to survive the first year will be replaced with another plant or store credit. Replacements will not be considered on plants that have cosmetic damage alone.

• The warranty is valid for one (1) year from the original date of purchase.

• The warranty covers 100% of the original amount paid for the plant plus sales tax, if applicable.

• You must have your original cash register receipt to activate the warranty. For your convenience please contact us at treesandshrubsgethsemane@yahoo.com with a current photo of the plant and an image of your receipt.

• There will only be replacement of the tree or shrub, or store credit issued for the dead plant material. No cash, debit, or credit card return will be issued.

• Services such as delivery, planting, or any other applicable labor fees are not covered under this warranty.

• Please note that we do not offer a warranty/guarantee of any kind for trees and shrubs that are purchased at a discounted price or that have been planted in containers, raised beds, or parkways.

PDF Copy